Thursday, April 8, 2010
The Padres had a day off today as they traveled from Phoenix to Denver, which means I had a day off too...and I didn't waist it. I had lunch with my sister, I spent some time with my Dad, I ran some errands, I did yard worked and I went surfing.
There are a lot of things I like about surfing (it's athletic, it gets you outside, it gets you in the water, it's super fun), but the thing I like the best is when you get to surf with friends. That's why I love surfing in my hometown, Coronado. True, it doesn't always have the best waves, but it definitely has the best people.
For some reason when you surf in a place like Pacific Beach, everyone in the water is super aggressive and mean. People drop in on you, everyone is sizing each other up and in general there is just an ugly vibe in the line up.
To me that's missing the point entirely.
Surfing is about community and nature and having fun. The word surfers use most often to describe that feeling is "stoak". I know it sounds cheesy and that this whole entry has a bit of "hippy" feel to it, but it's true. Surfing, at it's core, is all about finding that stoak.
For me that's easier when I'm surrounded by friends...or if I've been drinking.