Tuesday, November 9, 2010
In the past I have never really considered myself a "surfer". I always just thought of it as "I am a guy that surfs". It's a subtle difference, but a difference none the less.
In my mind to be labeled a "surfer" is as much about your lifestyle and beliefs as it is about what you do (i.e. surf). This weekend however I came to grips with the fact that I do now consider myself a surfer...and it has nothing to do with the quality of my surfing and everything do to with how I feel about surfing.
This weekend was one of those amazing weekends in the water. Perfect tide, no wind, a good swell, great sandbars and all of your buddies in the lineup. It sounds cheesy but I really believe that people who grow up in and around the ocean (like I did) feel a deep connection to it. There was an ad in Surfer Magazine back in the late 80's or early 90's that read, "Blood is 90% water, it's time to come home."
That's how I feel and that's why I'm a surfer.